HELP FOR DOG AND CAT LOVERS IN NEW YORK CITY:

Did you know, that if you are a dog or cat lover and currently live in New York City, you do not necessarily have the right to own a pet or replace your pet if your loved one dies?

Under the current law, the Courts have granted landlords the right to enforce a no-pet clause for each animal companion a tenant has. For instance if you already have a cat or a dog, it does not automatically mean you have the right to adopt another or replace one that has passed away. As you know, I could not imagine living my life without my companion animals, they are part of my family.

There is a solution which I wanted to pass onto you:

The NYC Council is considering something called “Intro. No. 380” (also know as “The NYC pets in housing bill.). This bill was introduced by Councilmember Melinda Katz. Her bill states:

Once a landlord waives the NO-PET clause in a tenant’s lease, it is waived for the duration of the tenant's occupancy, not just for the lifetime of a particular animal. Thus, once your first animal has been approved, every animal thereafter is grandfathered in. Most importantly THIS ALSO protects senior citizens, 62 yrs. of age and older, from being denied occupancy or being evicted from a multiple dwelling apartment for keeping a pet. For many senior citizens who are widowed or live alone, their pet eases their loneliness and provides comfort and companionship.

As I’ve explained on this website, and through my Public Service Announcements, on average, 40,000 cats and dogs are euthanized each year in NYC shelters. This INTRO #380 will save the lives of thousands of animals who might otherwise be abandoned or surrendered over to already overburdened shelters.

I have lent my name to support this VERY IMPORTANT cause. If YOU also care and would like to help make a difference, there are phone calls you can make and letters you can write !! Just tell them:

I am calling/writing to SUPPORT INTRO NUMBER 380, THE NEW YORK CITY PETS IN HOUSING BILL !

Here are some names/numbers:
New York City Council Speaker Gifford Miller: 212-788-7210
Councilmember and Housing & Buildings Chair, Madeline Provenzano: 212-788-7375
You can also write to them at:
250 Broadway, New York, New York, 10007

You can also send a THANK YOU letter to Melinda Katz who introduced the Bill. She can be reached at the same address.

Thanks, as always, for helping spread the word to protect our animal companions !!

Babies on Board: Springtime Brings Extra Concerns for Wildlife Says Fund for Animals

This time of year, people may think they're home alone until they hear ghostly scratching noises coming from the attic, or chirring sounds resonating from the chimney. It's baby season! Springtime is when many wild animals take advantage of holes in attics, uncapped chimneys, and openings under sheds to raise their young.

"The easiest and most humane solution is merely to wait it out. The mother will move her family when the young are big enough," said Laura Simon, Urban Wildlife Director of The Fund for Animals. "Don't move the babies from their den site or the mother won't find them." According to Simon, trapping is a cruel and inhumane solution and will not solve the problem--the mother animal usually gets trapped, leaving the orphaned babies behind. "And hiring a commercial trapper can cost hundreds of dollars for a problem that homeowners can easily solve themselves," said Simon.

Simon recommended these simple, humane solutions for evicting unwanted wildlife:

Place a blaring radio, lights, and ammonia-sprinkled rags near the den or nest to encourage their departure. Do this in the early evening or morning, during the animals' normal activity time.

After the animals are gone, be sure to put chimney caps on flues and close any other holes in the home.

Simon also cautioned would-be rescuers of "orphaned" wildlife to make sure the animal is really orphaned. "Certain wild animals, such as deer and rabbits, leave their young alone and only return to nurse them a few times a day," said Simon. "Only if an animal is injured, wandering and crying incessantly, or if the mother is definitely dead, should a licensed wildlife rehabilitator be contacted (call your local fish and wildlife agency for a referral)."

Simon also points out that contrary to myth, a baby songbird who has fallen out of the nest can simply be put back. If the nest is unreachable, the baby can be placed in a shallow wicker basket attached to a nearby tree limb.

THE FERAL CAT ISSUE: YOU CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE
Trap-Neuter-Return: Managing Feral Cat Colonies

A few weeks ago I got together with an old friend who shared with me an interesting story about how her community got together to deal with the feral cats in their neighborhood.

Her neighbors learned about safely trapping the “street” cats and they each donated some money to pay for spaying and neutering. They got a local Vet involved and he gave them a discount for their efforts. After the cats were spayed/neutered some were able to go to a shelter and get adopted. Unfortunately many feral/free-roaming cats are not candidates for adoption, so the group let them back on the street, EXCEPT NOW they were unable to reproduce and therefore not adding to the overpopulation problem and the rampant colonies growing in the neighborhood.

Having heard the story I did some research and found organizations that support and educate people about something called TRAP-NEUTER-RETURN (TNR). Rather than trapping and euthanizing feral cats to “eliminate” the problem, the “TNR” approach is one of safe and live trapping, sterilizing and then releasing cats who cannot reproduce. I know some people may disagree on this issue, but I do honestly believe it is a very valid approach to a tricky and unfortunate situation. The problem exists and I’d rather see communities try “TNR” than for cats to keep reproducing and multiplying and adding to the problem. Of course I wish there were no cats living on the streets and that every single one of them had a warm, safe and loving home to live in, but unfortunately that is not realistic as the huge population of free-roaming cats already exists. And feral cats are not necessarily safe to bring into your home.

I was happy to find out that there are organizations who support TNR and similar tactics. Public education, along with subsidized sterilization, CAN and WILL help the overpopulation crisis. In the past, I’ve spoken about this crisis in the SHELTERS, but my friend helped me understand that this problem is also on the streets. Feral cats cannot be ignored and they need some sort of attention, as the spay and neuter issue is just as bad on the streets for them as for the cats in the shelters.

Whatever side you take on this issue, I encourage you to take a look at these websites which have information/articles/tips on the subject and to read more about this interesting – albeit controversial approach:

Eight Common Hazards For Cats
Courtesy of The Humane Society of The United States.

Many people with cat animal companions lose patience with them when it comes to some of their more playful behaviors ! You can avoid conflict with your feline and more importantly, enjoy a more calm and SAFE household with them if you take into consideration these tips and precautions from The Humane Society:

1. Remove tablecloths from unattended tables. New kittens will be especially curious about what's up there on the table and will try to use the tablecloth to climb up. The result could be broken china and crystal and an emergency trip to the vet.
2. Unplug dangling cords. Some cats like to chew on cords. Until you know for a fact that your cat isn't one of them, it's best not to risk electric shock. Also, be alert to potential fire hazards—lamps can tip over while you are out of the room, causing the shade to ignite and start a fire.
3. Cover garbage disposal switches. Natural climbers, cats usually find their way to the kitchen sink sooner or later. Many have been known to play with electric switches such as the one for a garbage disposal. Special covers are available at hardware stores to help avoid disaster.
4. Keep drapery cords out of reach. It's a good idea to use childproofing devices to wind up dangling cords—cats can strangle themselves by catching their necks in the loops.
5. Close the dryer door. Cats love to explore, especially dark, quiet places. Always check inside large appliances before closing their doors to make sure your cat is not inside.
6. Make sure your screen door has a securing latch. Cats are safe indoors; they are not safe outdoors. Don't run the risk that your cat could slip out unnoticed.
7. Pack away precious breakables. Cats in a new home will explore. They will jump on tables, cabinets, sideboards, and bookshelves to investigate their strange domain, and they may accidentally knock over or break fragile items and knickknacks.
8. Cover your furniture. If you don't want cat hair on your upholstery, put an old sheet on your most enticing sofas and chairs. That way your cat can enjoy the furniture along with you without shedding fur all over it. Simply remove the sheet when guests arrive.

Safe Air Travel For Your Animal Companions
Courtesy of The Humane Society of The United States:

If you must transport your pet by air, your first decision is whether you can take him or her on board with you, which is by far the best option. If your pet is a cat or small dog, most airlines will allow you to take the animal on board for an additional fee. To find out about this option, call the airline.

Most airlines provide information about transporting pets with them. When you contact the airline, be sure to find answers to these questions:

• Does the airline allow you to take your cat or small dog on board with you?
• If not, does the airline have any restrictions on transporting your pet as cargo?
• Do they have special pet health and immunization requirements?
• Do they require a specific type of carrier? Most airlines will accept either hard-sided carriers or soft-sided carriers, which may be more comfortable for your pet, but only certain brands of soft-sided carriers are acceptable to certain airlines.

If your pet must travel in the cargo hold, you can increase chances of a safe flight for them with these tips:

• Use direct flights and always travel on the same flight as your pet.
• Ask the airline if you can watch your pet being loaded and unloaded into the cargo hold.
• When you board the plane, notify the captain and at least one flight attendant that your pet is traveling in the cargo hold. If the captain knows that pets are on board, he or she may take special precautions.
• Do not ship pug-nosed dogs or cats such as Pekingese, Chow Chows, and Persians in the cargo hold. These breeds have short nasal passages that leave them vulnerable to oxygen deprivation and heat stroke in cargo holds.
• If traveling in the summer or winter, choose flights that will accommodate temperature extremes (early morning or late evening flights are better in summer; afternoon flights are better in the winter).
• Fit your pet with a collar that can't get caught in carrier doors. Affix two pieces of identification on the collar—a permanent ID with your name and home address and telephone number and a temporary travel ID with the address and telephone number where you or a contact person can be reached.
• Affix a travel label to the carrier with your name, permanent address and telephone number, final destination, and where you or a contact person can be reached as soon as the flight arrives.
• Make sure that your pet's nails have been clipped to protect against their hooking in the carrier's door, holes, and other crevices.
• Give your pet at least a month before your flight to become familiar with the travel carrier. This will minimize his or her stress during travel.
• Do not give your pet tranquilizers unless they are prescribed by your veterinarian. Make sure your veterinarian understands that the prescription is for air travel.
• Do not feed your pet for four to six hours prior to air travel. Small amounts of water can be given before the trip. If possible, put ice cubes in the water tray attached to the inside of your pet's kennel. A full water bowl will only spill and cause discomfort.
• Try not to fly with your pet during busy travel times such as holidays and the summer. Your pet is more likely to undergo rough handling during hectic travel periods.
• Carry a current photograph of your pet. If your pet is lost during the trip, a photograph will make it much easier for airline employees to search effectively.
• When you arrive at your destination, open the carrier as soon as you are in a safe place and examine your pet. If anything seems wrong, take your pet to a veterinarian immediately. Get the results of the examination in writing, including the date and time.

Traveling with Animal Companions

I know that summer for many people means holiday and vacation travel, and that brings up concerns about traveling with your animal companions. If you choose to bring your buddies with you, I thought you might find this information helpful Courtesy of The Humane Society of the United States:

TRAVEL BY CAR:

Dogs who enjoy car travel need not be confined to a carrier if your vehicle has a restraining harness (available at pet-supply stores and from Saab Cars) or if a passenger can restrain the animal. Because most cats are not as comfortable traveling in cars, for their own safety as well as yours, it is best to keep them in a carrier.

Dogs and cats should always be kept safely inside the car. Pets who are allowed to stick their heads out the window can be injured by particles of debris or become ill from having cold air forced into their lungs. Never transport a pet in the back of an open pickup truck.

Stop frequently to allow your pet to exercise and eliminate. Never permit your pet to leave the car without a collar, ID tag, and leash.

Never leave your pet unattended in a parked car. On warm days, the temperature in your car can rise to 120° in a matter of minutes, even with the windows opened slightly. Furthermore, an animal left alone in a car is an invitation to pet thieves.

AIR TRAVEL:

The Humane Society of the United States recommends that you do not transport your pet by air unless absolutely necessary. According to the Air Transport Association, more than 5,000 animals are killed, injured, or lost on commercial flights each year. Our beloved pets face risks including excessively hot or cold temperatures, poor ventilation, scarcity of oxygen, and rough handling.

The airline industry treats live animals as mere baggage, transporting them in cargo holds not designed for life support. In the past, airlines have neither responded appropriately to reports of animal injuries, nor provided accurate information to the flying public.

In response to the problems associated with pet air travel, Congress passed the Safe Air Travel for Animals Act in April 2000. The HSUS lobbied extensively for this law. Although the U.S. Department of Transportation has yet to adopt regulations to implement the law, many airlines responded to the law's passage by announcing restrictions on accepting pets as cargo.

Before you make plans to travel with your pet by air, follow these suggestions:

If you plan to bring your pet on vacation, consider driving instead of flying. (Neither Amtrak nor Greyhound allows pets.) If this isn't possible, consider leaving your pet behind under the care of a pet sitter or boarding kennel.

If you are relocating across the country, consider using a company whose primary business is to transport animals.

And remember: While finding alternative transportation or boarding for your animal might be inconvenient, the inconvenience is minor when weighed against the risk of losing your companion forever. Above all, when making travel decisions, please consider what is best for your pet.

If you must travel with your pet on a major airline, the Humane Society has tips specifically for airline travel. I will provide those in the next FUND FACT.

What You Can Do If You Cannot Afford Veterinary Care
Copyright © The Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved.

Many pet owners, at one point or another, are faced with unexpected veterinary bills. Veterinary medicine has progressed so far that now pet owners have new, and often expensive, options for the care of their ailing pets. Although the cost of veterinary care is actually very reasonable in comparison with the much higher cost of human health care, an unexpected medical emergency can present a major financial dilemma for an unprepared pet owner.

The Humane Society of the United States recommends that, in addition to preparing for routine pet-care costs, you regularly set aside savings to cover for unexpected veterinary bills. Create a special "pet savings account" and contribute money to it on a regular basis.

If, despite your planning, your pet incurs major veterinary expenses that you have trouble affording, consider these suggestions:

Wildlife Conrol Operators

Laura Simon, Urban Wildlife Director for The Fund for Animals, has some helpful information to offer about organizations called NUISANCE WILDLIFE CONTROL OPERATORS (or NWCOs). If you find a situation where you need to contact a NWCO, she recommends you receive assurance that their strategies will be responsible and humane. Here are suggested standard to be sure the NWCO agree to follow:

1. They will do a full site inspection to identify all wildlife attractants and problem sources. Merely trapping the animal will not solve the problem as long as the attractant remains - other animals will quickly replace any removed.
2. They will demonstrate a commitment to humane capture and handling techniques. Traps will be checked at least once daily, covered appropriately and not set in bad weather, such as extremes of heat or cold, or predicted heavy precipitation unless trap is protected within a dwelling. Homeowners should be encouraged to allow on-site release so animal remains in familiar habitat and has the best survival chances.
3. They will inform homeowners about non-lethal options for solving the problem.
4. They will use strategies to prevent orphaning:
   
   
   
   1. Before removing any animal they will do a thorough inspection to see if young are present.
   2. If young are found, NWCO will encourage the homeowner to give the animal family a grace period.
   3. If a grace period is not possible, NWCO will use appropriate repellents and/or scare devices to encourage the family to self-evict.
   4. If all the above are not possible, live-traps or one-way-door traps can be used as long as the mother and young are reunited using responsible strategies:
      
      
      
      • Put young in box RIGHT outside entry hole for the mother to retrieve, and monitor to ensure retrieval. If a one-way door is used, the NWCO must make sure the young are mobile enough to leave with the mother or are put young outside the door for the mother to retrieve. Many animals will not find their young if the babies are not left at the den/nest site or extremely close to it.
      • Extremely young animals (eyes closed, barely furred) will need a heat source– such as a heating pad – when placed for retrieval or they will become compromised and either die or be rejected by the parent(s).
      • Young animals will be put outside for retrieval when the parent(s) are likely to be active, i.e. NWCO must know whether the species tends to be diurnal or nocturnal and act accordingly to optimize retrieval success.
      • Young animals must be sheltered, protected from predators, and not left outside in inclement weather.
      
      
      
      
   5. NWCO will check all trapped mammals for lactation (enlarged nipples) during birthing and rearing seasons (spring-fall) to ensure that a mother is not separated from her young or that the young are NOT left behind to starve.
   6. If young are not retrieved, NWCO will make every effort to take the orphan(s) to a wildlife rehabilitator for placement.
      
      
      
5. NWCO will educate homeowner about solving the problem (i.e. install chimney caps, repair holes). The NWCO’s goal must be to handle the source of the problem (an open cavity or food source) not just the symptom (the animal).
6. NWCO will euthanize an animal only if it is mortally injured, sick, endangering public safety, or if required by law, and they will not use inhumane killing methods such as drowning, car exhaust, kill traps, poisons, etc.

For more information, you can call The Fund for Animals' Urban Wildlife Hotline at 203-389-4411, or to find an NWCO in your area, you can call your state wildlife agency (usually called Department of Natural Resources, Department of Fish and Wildlife, Department of Fish and Game, etc.)

Black Beauty Ranch Information

This month I wanted to share with you some information about The Fund For Animals’ Black Beauty Ranch.

The ranch was founded in 1979 by Cleveland Amory and The Fund for Animals in order to provide a safe sanctuary and final home for unwanted and abused domestic and exotic animals. Since 1990, the ranch has been managed by Chris Byrne.

The first purchase was 85 acres to house burros rescued from the Grand Canyon National Park. The ranch now encompasses 1,430 acres with four lakes and a dozen ponds and brooks. Eastern Texas is the ideal place for Black Beauty Ranch, because it is the best place for good grasslands for the many hooved animals under their care.

For the animals who are lucky enough to come to Black Beauty Ranch, it is their last home and final resting place. Every animal is treated with the utmost respect and love. No animal is asked to perform, entertain, or work. They are not chained, and they are allowed to roam as much as safety will allow. We do not breed animals at the ranch, although babies are occasionally born if their mothers arrive pregnant.

Although guided tours are available, Black Beauty Ranch is not a zoo. As Cleveland Amory wrote in his book Ranch of Dreams, "it would not be a place where the animals were there primarily to be looked at; rather it would be a place where they would primarily be looked after."

The philosophy of The Fund for Animals' Black Beauty Ranch is best summed up by the words that are enshrined on the entrance gate. These lines from Anna Sewell's famous book, Black Beauty, were the inspiration for Black Beauty Ranch: "I have nothing to fear; and here my story ends. My troubles are all over, and I am at home."

Guest Conributer, April Mackin, Celebrity Animals

April Mackin is a twenty year veteran animal trainer who has been working with Birds and Animals Unlimited for the past 12 years. Among her hundreds of film credits are: Doctor Dolittle 2; Ace Ventura Pet Detective; You’ve Got Mail; Oh Brother Where Art Thou ?; That Darn Cat; and All The Pretty Horses. Television credits include All My Children (where she met Julia !); Guiding Light; Third Watch; and That’s My Dog. April is our "special guest" this month on the web site!

Hi Everyone,

Many people have asked Julia about training their dogs and losing patience with them because they have “inappropriate behavior” or are “impossible to train.” I have known Julia for several years from my work as an animal trainer on the set of All My Children, and she has even asked me a few times about her own dog Nell's excessive barking ! Recently Julia asked me if I could provide for you some information on the subject, and I am more than happy to oblige.

From my experience, I can tell you that there are generally three underlying issues that, if understood and examined in your own situation, can help lay the foundation for better communication and positive behavior from your companion. The most important thing, first and foremost, is to remember that your dog is a member of the family and he/she requires love and attention like any member of the family. I believe that the dogs with problems are usually lacking in one or more of these three areas:

1. Not enough attention.
2. Lack of consistency in training.
3. Improper corrections due to lack of communication between human and animal companion (miscommunication with your dog).

Not enough attention: Most people believe if they have a big yard for the dog to play and run in it is better for the dog. What they don't understand is that a big yard is not a substitute for attention. I live in the country and when I go jogging I am frequently barked at and sometimes chased. When I work in Manhattan I notice that there are the most pleasant and well-behaved dogs walking among the city streets with their owner. In general, those dogs that have to be hand-walked – instead of being let outside to roam free in a yard -- and live in an apartment are getting attention two to three times a day from their human companion. In the country, the yard is the walking grounds and how much time is spent with the dog varies from owner. Many times people just let their dog out and don’t accompany them at all. They are getting the benefits of running around outdoors, but they may be lacking in human attention. Your animal should get as much attention as any other member of your family. If you do not have the time to devote to them you will inevitably see problems.

Lack of consistent training: In order to train dogs, we must think of what we want them to do or not to do before we begin. Then, we can start behavior modification "training." Here is an example: let's say that we just brought our new dog home and we are not going to allow him or her on the couch. NEVER EVER should the dog be asked to come on the couch. Some people think "just this one time" or a family member will allow the dog to come on the couch. If this happens, the dog gets confused and doesn’t understand whether or not he is allowed on the couch, and will test this.

Remember you must be consistent with what you want your animal to do and you need to know what you want from them. It is counterproductive to send mixed signals to your animal. They will get confused and you will get frustrated. Be clear about what you want, and stay strong and consistent about it. Your dog will be happier in the long run.

Lack of communication: Try to imagine going to a foreign country and you need to buy a bus ticket. You go to the ticket person and ask for a bus ticket. They will look at you because “a bus ticket” is not in their language. If you try and demonstrate what a ticket looks like they may give you a magazine! This illustrates that a difference in language does not at all mean stupidity. Instead, it means a lack of communication. It has nothing to do with how smart we are.

Another example is Helen Keller, who could not see, hear, or speak. Because of that, she could not communicate in our language. It wasn't until time was spent with her on association of sign language and consistency behavior modification that she could understand and communicate.

We have the same situation with dogs. We must first associate the behavior with a word and hand signal followed by positive reinforcement. With repetition the animal should start to understand the association. Do not correct in appropriate behavior until the animal understands what the desired behavior is. Positive reinforcement is key when training animals.

In conclusion, to better understand, train and change the behavior of your animal companions, you should examine the above information and then you can apply it to OTHER specific problem areas that you and your dog are experiencing. These are the foundation to deal with particular issues like excessive and inappropriate barking and boundary testing. Good luck and please remember to be patient with your animal !

Benefits of Adopting Older Animals

While many people are convinced that they want to adopt a puppy or kitten, please consider adopting an older dog or cat from your local animal shelter.

You may not know that shelters around the country are filled to capacity with adult animals between one and two years old. These animals have been abandoned for many reasons. Unfortunately, people often just lose interest in having an animal companion. Sometimes people have to give up their animal to a shelter because of other reasons like illness or death, which make them unable to care for their animal. And, sadly, some people don’t consider their animal “cute” anymore after they are no longer kittens or puppies. This contributes to the overpopulation crisis.

It is important to know that these adult animals at the shelters are often very smart, well-behaved, and already well adapted to living in a home. They are just looking for people to love.

By considering adopting an adult animal companion, you are really giving a dog or cat the chance at a second life !

Losing Animal Companions

Unfortunately along with all of the joy and love that comes with having animals in our lives, there is grief and pain when they get sick, suffer and die. There are no words that can comfort us, and I have personally gone through this on many occasions with dogs, cats, birds and other animal companions throughout my life.

Losing a loved one is always difficult. When we lose a special companion animal who shared and enriched our life, it can be just as heart-breaking as losing a human companion.

I asked the Fund for Animals about resources they recommend on this particular subject.

According to Michael Markarian, "The following web sites provide support and resources for pet loss grief and bereavement. You can also send sympathy cards to people who have lost companion animals, and you can post online memorials for your departed animal friends."

Duck Facts

There have been some recent inquiries on the site about ducks in your yards, lost, or in trouble. I asked The Fund for Animals some of the more common questions and they shared the following helpful information with me:

There's a duck nesting in the worst place. What should I do?

A: Ducks commonly nest in poor spots, such as under bank-teller windows or the middle of busy ball fields. These nests may fall prey to cats, dogs, or human malice. However, if you move the eggs and nest, the parents usually won't follow it. We suggest putting up educational signs and perhaps trying to fence off the nest temporarily. There isn't much else you can do. Some people have tried moving the nest, a few feet at a time, into a better area. This may work if the relocation site is nearby and you move the nest a bit by bit. However, the mother may stay on the nest making relocation impossible. It's usually best to leave the nest alone and hope for the best.

How do I move a duck family out of a contained courtyard?

A: You can shepherd them out by creating a "moving wall," i.e. have people hold sheets between them and move behind the ducks, forcing them to walk in the desired direction. However, consider waiting to move them out because the young may be vulnerable. Sometimes we encourage the temporary feeding of greens like kale, spinach, and also poultry starter food, (available from an animal feed store) and setting up a shallow kiddy pool with ramps, until the ducklings can fly. We encourage provisioning particularly in cities, where early eviction can mean certain death.

Q: How do I catch and move a duck family if absolutely necessary for their safety?

A: The only way to catch adult ducks is to do so at night (they don't see well in darkness), by creeping up on them while they sleep, then gently cover them with a lightweight blanket or towel, and scoop them into a carrier. Catch the ducklings next with a net or sheet, but try to minimize stress as they will be scared and may scatter. Be sure the net doesn't have large holes in which they may escape or become entangled. Consult your state fish and game agency prior to any intervention for any special authorization you might need.

Hope you find that helpful !
Till next time..

Racoon Facts

Many of you have told me stories about raccoons in your yards, garages, garbage cans, attics, and just about any other place possible! Believe me, as a homeowner I can totally appreciate the situations you have faced with these adorable but dangerous creatures. So, for some advice, I turned to my friends at The Fund For Animals for tips on the subject and they provided me with lots of very interesting information.

How do you keep raccoons out of the garbage ?

Uncovered garbage cans provide an open invitation to hungry raccoons, so if you are able to put your garbage cans "out" in the morning for pick-up, rather than the night before, it could help. Raccoons are nocturnal so nighttime is their favorite time to go snooping around. If you must put your cans out at night, get the kind of plastic can with a tall (4 feet high) TWIST-ON lid which they cannot open.

How do I get a raccoon out of my attic or chimney ?

In spring and summer, mother raccoons often take advantage of chimneys and attics as denning sites for raising cubs. The easiest and best solution is to try to wait a few weeks for the raccoons to move out on their own. As soon as the cubs are old enough to go on nighttime outings with their mom, she will take them out of the chimney once and for all, rather than continually carrying them back and forth. If you absolutely must evict the raccoon family, here are safe but effective methods:

Chimney: Just before dusk (they won't leave in broad daylight), keep the damper of the chimney closed and put a blaring radio in the fireplace. Then put a bowl of ammonia on a footstool near the damper. Be patient, it may take a few days for the mom to move her young. Once they leave, promptly call a chimney sweep to install a mesh chimney cap (the best kind has a stainless steel top) and this situation will not recur.

Attic: Just before dusk, leave all of the lights on in the attic and place a blaring radio and rags sprinkled with ¼ cup of ammonia around the attic. You can also enhance the deterrent effect by adding cayenne pepper or the commercial repellent "Repel" around the attic. Once they are gone, be sure to seal up any entry holes in the attic so the situation doesn't happen again. An extra tip: since most attics contain a bit of clutter, this can make it very hard to confirm that the family is gone. So, before sealing up any entry holes, stuff it with newspapers first and see if the paper stays in place for three successive nights. If so, the den is truly vacated. After sealing the entry hole for good with hardware cloth, make sure no raccoons were left behind by leaving a sardine or a marshmallow in the attic and check if the food is uneaten after 24 hours, or sprinkle flour in the front of the entry hole and check for footprints of a raccoon trying to get out.

I found that information from The Fund folks very helpful ! There is lots more, which I will get to you next month in the April Fund Fact !

Julia

Help Protect Animals from Winter's Harm - PART ONE

In the freezing cold winter months, I get worried about our animals keeping safe and warm. I see so many outdoor cats and dogs who live in yards and doghouses, and I am concerned about their safety. Many of you requested advice about the cold weather. So, I checked with The Fund For Animals and here is "PART ONE" of their advice:

• Do not leave dogs outdoors when the temperature drops. Dogs are safer indoors, except when taken out for exercise
• Short-coated dogs may feel more comfortable wearing a sweater during walks.
• No matter what the temperature, the wind chill can threaten an animal's life. If your dog is outdoors, he or she must be protected by a dry, draft-free doghouse that is large enough to allow the dog to sit and lie down comfortably but small enough to hold in his/her body heat. The floor should be raised a few inches off the ground and covered with cedar shavings or straw. The house should be turned to face away from the wind, and the doorway should be covered with waterproof burlap or heavy plastic.
• Use plastic bowls for food AND water, rather than metal. When the temperature is low, your dog's tongue can stick and freeze to metal.
• Animals who spend a lot of time outdoors need more food in the winter because keeping warm depletes energy.
• Routinely check your dog's water dish to make certain the water is fresh and unfrozen.

Be sure to check back in February when we'll have "PART TWO" - - more tips for keeping animals safe in the wintertime.

Until then. Keep warm.

Julia

Help Protect Animals from Winter's Harm - PART TWO

As promised, here is PART TWO on keeping animals safe and warm in the freezing cold weather.

• Warm engines in parked cars attract cats and small wildlife, who may crawl up under the hood. To avoid injuring any hidden animals, bang on your car's hood to scare them away before starting your engine.
• The salt and other chemicals used to melt snow and ice can irritate the pads of an animal's feet. Wipe the feet with a damp towel before your pet licks them and irritates his or her mouth.
• Antifreeze is a deadly poison, but it has a sweet taste that may attract animals and children. Wipe up spills carefully and store antifreeze (and all household chemicals) out of reach.
• Better yet, if you can find it, use antifreeze-coolant made with propylene glycol; if swallowed in small amounts, it will not hurt pets, wildlife, or your family.
• The best prescription for winter's woes is to keep your dogs and cats inside with you and your family. The happiest dogs are those who are taken out frequently for walks and exercise but kept inside the rest of the time. Dogs and cats are social animals who crave human companionship. Your animal companions deserve to live indoors with you and your family.

If you have any tips or personal advice of your own, please leave your comments and tips in the guestbook. I will put them up next month !

Thanks, and stay warm !

Julia

Make the Holidays Safe For Animals

Every year around the holidays, one of our animals at home always seems to eat something they shouldn't. Sometimes it is a clever accident of holiday cookies that they inhale, other times it is a tree decoration. We try to animal-proof our home all year round, but the holidays are especially tricky. My friends at The Fund For Animals offered some tips that will help us bring joy to all creatures as we celebrate the holidays.

• Don't use any decorative food items, such as fruit or gingerbread cookies, that have been preserved in shellac. Animals will be attracted to the food, and can become sick if they eat shellac, food coloring, etc.
• If you have dogs, don't leave chocolate treats in places where the dog can reach them (such as a bowl of chocolate left out for Santa). Chocolate can be fatal to dogs.
• Avoid decorations that are made of foil or tinsel. Animals are attracted to shiny, silvery items, and can become sick if they eat these materials.
• Don't string berries outside for squirrels and birds. Berries on a string are frustrating to birds because they have a difficult time using their beaks to get the berries off the string.
• Ditto for popcorn stringing with squirrels and birds. Popcorn is difficult to swallow and can lodge in their throats.
• If you want to make a fun and attractive outdoor decoration that is also a safe and healthy snack for birds and squirrels, try the following: Attach a wire to the top of a pinecone, and then stuff the scales of the pinecone with peanut butter and roll it in a sunflower seed mix. Hang your pinecones outside and watch the neighboring animals enjoy!

Happy holidays to ALL creatures ! Enjoy.

Julia

Rabies Facts

I've gotten some emails with questions about rabies, so I asked Michael Markarian at The Fund For Animals to share some advice and information he has on the subject. According to Michael:

• The Rabies virus cannot penetrate intact skin.
• People can only get rabies via a bite from a rabid animal, or through scratches, abrasions, open wounds, or mucous membranes contaminated with saliva or brain tissue from a rabid animal.
• The virus is short-lived when exposed to the open air.
• Rabies is NOT transmitted through the blood, urine, or feces of an infected animal, nor is it spread airborne through the open environment.
• Squirrels rarely get rabies. A more common, fatal problem for squirrels is the roundworm parasite, which infects the brain and results in symptoms similar to rabies.
• No human has ever died from the raccoon strain of rabies, according to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC).
• Woodchucks are the only rodents with a higher susceptibility to rabies. However, woodchucks are even more susceptible to the roundworm brain parasite, which causes symptoms that look exactly like rabies.
• The handful of human deaths from rabies annually (averaging two to four a year nationwide) have been largely due to a domestic bat strain or a canine strain from abroad.
• In the seventeen years from 1980 to 1997, there were a total of 36 human fatalities from rabies, of which 58% were bat strain (primarily silver-haired variant) and 36% were canine strain contracted overseas. This low incidence doesn't mean we can't contract rabies, it just means we should continue taking sensible precautions to prevent exposures and seek prompt post-exposure treatment when advised to do so by a doctor or local health department.

Interesting information ! Hope it is helpful.

Patience & training can save animals

I was not surprised to learn from my friends at The Fund For Animals that up to ten million dogs and cats are euthanized every year in animal shelters.

What did surprise me, though, is that many of these animals are abandoned by their guardians, because people do not know how - - or don't want to learn - - to solve common problems with their animals. Because of that, they become disappointed or frustrated with their companion's behavior and don't know what else to do except to dump them at a shelter. And the saddest part is that these "behavior" problems and issues are usually very common and simple things such as separation anxiety, destructive acts, and housetraining. It is so upsetting to know that people don't know where to turn, or don't want to find out what to do.

The good news is that with education, support, patience and understanding, people can learn to work on solving these problems and will not be forced to give up their animals.

There are hundreds of videos, books, brochures and television programs that offer help for these issues. Look in your local bookstore, ask your Vet, search on the internet, and look in the yellow pages of your telephone book - - there are often local services, organizations and animal specialists who can help you.

Oh Deer !

I don't know if it happens to you, but I cannot tell you how many beautiful deer I spot on or near major roads. I hear stories all the time in the news where someone hit a deer with their car and either the deer, the driver, or both, were seriously injured or even killed. We are losing so many of these animals, and also putting our own lives in severe danger.

According to the National Safety Council, there are an estimated 500,000 deer-related vehicle collisions every year, resulting in more than $125 million in medical and hospital costs and more than $940 million in vehicle repairs. In 1997, there were 142 fatal crashes with animals - - an increase of 11% since 1996 and 25% since 1995.

I asked Michael Markarian, my friend at The Fund For Animals for his thoughts and advice on the issue, and he offered the following tips:

• Be especially cautious in mid to late Fall, due to deer mating season and the onset of hunting season.
• Follow the speed limit. This can markedly reduce our chances of colliding with an animal.
• Always watch for wildlife, especially at dawn, dusk, and the first few hours of darkness.
• Be especially cautious when driving on two-lane roads.
• Glance continually from the road to the roadside, looking for movement where roads are bordered by fields or natural habitat.
• Heed warning signs and reduce speed in places deer are most likely to cross the road.
• If you see one deer cross, expect others.
• At night, watch for reflection from headlights in the eyes of deer at the roadside.
• If a deer "freezes" in your headlights, try turning your lights off and then back on.

Michael also told me about a new device that may help. "Along with increased driver education, many communities are using new technology to reduce collisions with animals. The "Strieter-Lite" wildlife warning reflectors are currently being used in 17 states and four Canadian provinces and have reduced vehicle collisions by 60 - 90% in most of the places where they've been installed, and have eliminated nighttime accidents with deer in some locations."

Here is how it works: "These reflectors are mounted on posts at headlight height and staggered along each side of the highway, causing flashes of low intensity light to be directed across the road at a 54-degree angle horizontally and vertically. Drivers do not see the dim light and are not bothered by it, but animals-including deer, moose, elk, and even small mammals-see an unnatural grid of moving light and are afraid to enter the road. Once the vehicles have passed and the light is gone, the animals are free to cross.

"Invented by John Strieter, this method requires only reflectors, posts, and stainless steel fasteners. The reflectors are mounted on highway delineator posts with the bottom of the reflector 24 to 30 inches above the crown of the road. The posts are staggered along each side of the road with the location depending on the amount of offset desired, width of usable shoulders, guard rails, vertical vegetation, drainage ditches, and embankments."

"The reflector lines may be offset up to 40 feet from the active edge of the highway, provided the distance between the reflector lines does not exceed 125-130 feet. The spacing of the reflectors along the highway (longitudinally) must always be equal to the distance between the reflector lines (latitudinally). This means that for wider roads or wider shoulders, the reflectors can be spaced farther apart and fewer are needed. In areas where the roadsides slope downward and animals cannot see the reflectors on the opposite side of the road, additional reflectors can be mounted back-to-back with the primary reflectors on the same posts and directed away from the road."

Michael says that the results have been very encouraging and we can hopefully see more of the Strieter-Lite in the near future.

For more information on how you can help prevent car collisions with wildlife, contact the following organizations: